Jin Zizai’s Physiognomy: Understanding Cognitive Misconceptions About Facial Features (Part 5)

Fourteen Principles of Women's Makeup

This topic has long been overlooked, as our predecessors left little writing on it. Recently, however, most reader letters have asked about makeup or cosmetic procedures. So I’ll address it here in hopes of offering some guidance.

Frankly, it’s not easy for women. A broad forehead is said to bring misfortune to a husband, while a small one brings punishment; a high nose spells trouble, while a low nose benefits the husband. Thin lips suggest scant affection, while thick lips imply excessive desire; large eyes lead to financial loss, while small eyes bring punishment to husbands. High cheekbones are unlucky, while low cheekbones point to loneliness; thick cheekbones help the husband, while thin ones bring punishment. Even the gaze is judged: a fierce look harms the husband, while a gentle one implies flirtatiousness.

Where’s the logic in this? If a woman succeeds, she should help her husband and raise children; if not, the man should take a concubine. These observations were compiled from various schools of physiognomy while I was organizing the Eight Methods of Female Character. The rules extend beyond features to speech, behavior, and appearance. Tracing their origins would be complicated—physiognomy differs in chaotic versus prosperous times, and with changing social roles of men and women. In today’s context, the above applies to all genders; simply replace “husband” with “wife.”

The following guidelines are based on “The Iron Knife.”

Women with high, broad, and bright foreheads should prioritize their careers before age 32. As long as the nose isn’t flat, career success tends to arrive in the thirties. If they wish to marry, they should choose a partner even more capable than themselves, or one seven years older. Bangs can be styled to the left or right to cover a mole, depending on which side it’s on.

Women with faint or sparse brows, yellowish thin brows, broken brows, or very thick brows may marry either early or late. They must focus on their careers and avoid relying on men. When choosing a partner, don’t fixate on family background or profession, and don’t be swayed by surface charm. Be practical, sincere, and ambitious, and be sure to look into the reputation of the man’s parents in the local community.

Women with protruding eyes, large eyes, split inner corners, or upturned outer corners should extend their eyebrow shape—make them as long as possible without going over-the-top like a celebrity. Aim for a gentle crescent shape. By their early thirties, they should be in a relationship and married by 31; even without children, marriage should come first. They shouldn’t change careers and should stay in their current role for four years.

Hair

A woman’s hair matters as much as a man’s beard. Avoid greasy hair, dry split ends, and colors that clash with your inherent elements. For thinner individuals, curly hair is preferable, and dyeing should be avoided. For heavier individuals, slightly shorter hair works, but avoid red dye. For the average person, avoid eyebrow-length bangs, buzz cuts, and very short styles. Those with very thin cheeks shouldn’t grow their hair past the shoulders; keep it a bit shorter with soft curls to add volume. Those with very full cheeks should avoid a buzz cut, as it can look overly harsh.

Fifteen Principles: Who Should Read "The Ice Mirror"

Many teachers recommend beginners in physiognomy start with “The Ice Mirror,” and many self-learners do the same—only to feel more confused. Therefore, we should first discuss how to study physiognomy, which requires returning to each book’s history and context.

For example, the author of “The Iron Knife” is a feng shui master with some knowledge of traditional Chinese medicine, while the author of the Liu Zhuang school was the national teacher to the King of Yan. The former interacted with merchants and commoners; the latter with nobles and royalty. Their different identities and statuses led to different emphases in their works.

Additionally, the Liu Zhuang tradition arose in the Yan capital, while the Water Mirror tradition originated in Jiangsu and Zhejiang. Customs, culture, and daily life differ greatly between north and south—why would their readings of fortune and misfortune be the same?

Furthermore, in prosperous times officials tend to be steady and composed, while in chaotic times striking features are common. The same traits can be read differently in prosperity versus decline—signifying an official in one era, a bandit in another. A book written in turbulent times will value striking features; one from peaceful times will value stability. Historical limits are inevitable.

Consider “The Ice Mirror,” written by Zeng Guofan, one of the four great ministers of the late Qing. As a high-ranking official, he doesn’t care whether your cheekbones are high or low or your brows thick or thin; he cares about loyalty, integrity, and whether you can be cultivated. He sees people differently from the average person.

Therefore, “The Ice Mirror” suits business management, government officials, and masters of traditional Chinese studies. For ordinary people like us, “The Iron Knife” is a better focus. Learners in the north will find insight in Liu Zhuang, while learners in the south will feel at home with Water Mirror, since those works arose in those regions.

In short, the study of physiognomy varies by person and place; it cannot be generalized.